Mostly Goulash
As alluded to in Budapest Passed the Test, Hungary’s complex history means a culinary experience one might not expect. “Hungarians eat more strudel than Austrians,” announced our Guru Walk guide. He declared we all needed to try goulash and urged us to order it as many times as possible since every chef added their own twist. Over the next five days, we took his advice to heart. First stop, Retek.
Although furnished with recommendations from trusted friends, we didn’t want to lose the magic of stumbling onto a gem. It wasn’t Retek’s remarkable font or tripadvisor reviews, but rather the need to line our stomachs prior to roaming the St. Stephen’s Square Christmas market. Nate ordered the goulash and Hope dined on potato dumplings with prosciutto shavings, which sound incredibly boring but were delightful. Frankly, the rustic bread and fresh butter were so delicious we didn’t care what the mains tasted like. The meal paired with a golden apple palinke and a crisp Hungarian white wine; the bill accompanied by a shot of plum liquor that warmed us right up.
OOne of the reasons we selected Budapest during winter was Hope’s obsession with European Christmas markets. Nate begrudgingly agreed but was soon swayed by the magic of Gluhwein aka Mulled wine.
When we weren’t meandering an outdoor Christmas market, we were perusing Central Markets and finding picturesque wine bars. Here are a few of the most notable ones (Budapest Central Market & another smaller one).
You may notice our focus on main meals. Nate usually skips breakfast, but Hope needs coffee and a baked treat to feel like she’s truly on holiday. Most mornings, she sauntered two blocks to Aran Bakery for an Americano and whatever pastry caught her eye, from a morning roll to a cheese croissant, jalapeno & chorizo croissant, or a berry tart, all were delicious.
On our second day in the city, we roamed the Castle District admiring the grandeur of Matthias Church (The Church of Our Lady Buda Castle) and the breaktaking views of Pest. The adjacent Christmas market was a tad lackluster so we continued on until we stopped at 21, a packed restaurant offering flavorful paprikakash and beef goulash (Can we just take a moment to talk about how adorable these goulash buckets are?! Apparently it’s a thing).
After a nap at our rental, we took to the streets, looking to unwind and snag more goulash. By accident or Providence, we found Legvidamabb Barakk where we squeezed into a tiny table with the familiar red and white checked tablecloth meant to evoke nostalgia and tradition. Across from us, a trio of Brits couldn’t believe we were wearing Liverpool gear while speaking with American accents. After some banter, we ordered the Ciganypecsenye (a “Roma”pork steak) and garlic soup. Those descriptions do not do justice to the actual dishes.
No cross-cultural dining experience would be complete without greasy, late night food. Langos is a cross between fry bread and flatbread, doughy, salty, and piled with whatever toppings you want. This place even used langos instead of a bun for their smash burger, and as you can see, it delivered.
In an effort to continue our goulash and traditional Hungarian foods experience, we ate lunch one day at Drum cafe. The waiter seemed genuinely pleased that we skipped the tourist spaghetti and went for local specialties. We ordered a cabbage stuffed pickled pepper, beef stew in a bread bowl, and, of course, more goulash.
The day unfolded as usual, wandering the streets and soaking up the city’s history. At the end of our block sat Mama Goulash, a place that always seemed to have a line around the corner. On GP, we never wait in line for food in a city with so many options (looking at your Portland). This particular afternoon, although enroute to a nap, we noticed there was no line. We dashed to the entrance and were promptly seated. We proceeded to stuff our faces with goulash and paprikakash. Were we that hungry considering we’d eaten at Drum Cafe a few hours prior? No. Did Hope also order butter cheese bread after she saw it glistening at a nearby table. Yes. Needless to say, our afternoon nap was longer than the movie Amadeus.
On our last full day, we went to the House of Terror Museum. Curated using artifacts and AV displays, visitors experience the impact of successive 20th Century Fascist and Communist regimes in Hungary: the informants, the surveillance, the random disappearing of dissidents. Hungary went through a period of misery imposed by outsiders and facilitated by local elites and the museum is their attempt to tell parts of that history (and leave others out). You really need to purchase the audio guide to maximize the experience.
Hoping to find something to eat before exploring Heroes’ Square, City Park, and Széchenyi Thermal Bath, we continued down Andrassy Avenue. Restaurants were closed or had long lines, so we marched onward until we caught sight of a colorful awning belonging to Gastronomia da Nandin. A young woman was slinging ham and prosciutto at the counter, building sturdy paninis. Never did a panini taste so good.
After lunch, we strolled through the park, admired Vajdahunyad Castle and Jak Chapel, peeped the thermal baths (we’ll take advantage of these next time), and tried to withstand the cold wind. It was gorgeous and crisp.
Time flies when you’re eating goulash and taking naps. On our final morning, we took our last stroll. Hope was determined to crown our Budapest experience with strudel or a Chimney Cake. Although it is possible to order an ice cream, pudding, or nutella filled cake, Hope kept it simple with cinnamon and sugar.
All this to say, we highly recommend a visit to Budapest and hope to return in the near future.
Hamarosan találkozunk Budapesten