TTYL, Sri Lanka
From hidden bays, pristine beaches and waves that beckon to your inner surfer (well someone’s inner surfer—we’re too old for that) to luscious highlands, kilometers of hiking trails, and more tea than you could drink in a lifetime, the 65,610 sq km island has something for everyone.
“You haven't been to Sri Lanka yet?” incredulous eyes stare at us from [Redacted], our proud Sri Lankan HR Director at work.
Despite our seven years in the region, a trip to Sri Lanka always got pushed further down the travel list. First it was Covid. Then a bit of unrest due to a revolution in March of 2022. Soon, we’d waited so long it became embarrassing.
The fact that everyone says you need at least 10 days to experience the incredible biodiversity and wonders of the island was also intimidating. Our long patches of off-time are generally reserved for parental visits in Washington.
This year, when the UAE government extended the Eid Al Adha holiday, we took it as a sign. Swallowing our embarrassment and embracing the "trip of a lifetime over the trip of a lifetime" mentality, we treated this quick getaway as a chance to dip our toes in the water.
Just the Facts, Ma’am/Sir:
Official Name: Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka
Old Name: Ceylon
Capital: Sri Jayawardenepura Kotte (legislative); Colombo (commercial and financial center)
Population: Approximately 22 million (and probably twice that many scooters and tuktuks)
Currency: Sri Lankan Rupee (LKR)
Languages: Sinhala and Tamil; English is widely used in business and government
Independence: February 4, 1948 (from the UK, of course)
Government: Unitary presidential republic
Borders: It’s an island, bro
Major Religions: Buddhism (~70%), Hinduism, Islam, and Christianity (7.6% represent)
Top Exports: Apparel and textiles, tea… LOTS of TEA, rubber products, and other spices
Fun Fact: Despite its modest size (about the size of West Virginia), Sri Lanka is one of the world's largest exporters of tea and “true cinnamon” and sits astride some of the busiest shipping lanes on earth.
Beyond the Facts:
Based on advice from a colleague, we hired a guide who talked non-stop about the wonders, the history, and the culture of Sri Lanka. Driving in Sri Lanka was a non-starter for us—they just have different approach to traffic norms than we cared to deal with.
Due to the short nature of the trip, we focused our stay in Ahungalla, enjoying some R&R at Riu Sri Lanka, then a day trip to the famous Galle Fort with a stop in at a sea turtle hatchery and conservatory where we saw a Green Turtles, Hawksbills, Loggerheads, and Leatherback, including a few disabled turtles living their little lives in safety, and a rare albino turtle (1 in 100,000) which according to the nature guide usually won’t mate (so sad!). Between bouts of dumping rain (yeah, we know you’re not supposed to visit the SW during the rainy season), we wandered the fort appreciating the convergence of architectural styles that reflected the various colonizing influences (Portuguese, Dutch, British).
Galle Fort is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but unlike a lot of places with that designation, it doesn't feel preserved under glass. It's the thriving core of a major city. The colonial courthouse is still in use. The mosque is active. You can inspect the cannons that once defended the harbor, walk past the lighthouse that still guides ships today, and buy gelato or a magnet for your mom from a nearby shop. A stone's throw away is a major university, and all the life, noise, and activity that comes with it.
Before flying back to the Gulf, we spent an afternoon in Colombo where we checked out Gangaramaya Temple and ate the most amazing Kalu Uru Mas Curry (black pork curry) and Kiribath (coconut rice). Last but not least, we tried Ceylon Arrack (distilled fermented coconut palm sap), which is a sneakily underrated adult beverage that may or may not be the base for these recipes.
